Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Worst

Cute sign outside the wine bar.

Chardonnay and Riesling.


Worst
Barentszstraat 171
1013 Amsterdam

Notes:
After our dinner at Moes we decided to have a glass of wine before hitting ours beds. The choice fell on Worst, which is located in a residential area just outside central Amsterdam, and not too far from my friend's flat. The atmosphere is casual, the wine menu limited to a handful by the glass, however offering the sympathetic option to have just half a glass. JC went with a glass of Languedoc Chardonnay and I a glass of Wehlenehrer Sonnenuhr Spätlese Riesling from Weingut Kerpen. The prices per glass range from 4,5 to 15euro, while the bar also offers an extensive list of bottles and a food menu of little things to nib on (including different sorts of sausages, as the name of the wine bar might imply). The bar closes early at midnight but is a great venue for a casual glass of wine. Recommended.

Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Moes

The table is set.
Deer pastrami, salad with pomegranate, chicken liver mousse with fried onions on crispy gingerbread.

Stamppot (a Dutch take on colcannon, here featuring cavolo nero and potatoes), topped with crisp bacon and a side of sausage.

Dornfelder Terrain Calcaire from Weingut Matthias Gaul in Pfalz.



Moes
Prins Henrikkade 142 sous
1011 Amsterdam

Notes:
After my late arrival in Amsterdam last Friday, my friend JC decided to take me out for a casual dinner. Moes was the chosen destination, a restaurant located beneath the De Appel art center, emphasizing seasonal and local products in its menu. While my friend started off with a mackerel brandade (which he was very pleased with) I went with a charcuterie plate with deer pastrami and chicken liver mousse. Unfortunately some of the deer pastrimi was quite irregular and full of tendons, though the taste of the meat did not fail. The chicken liver mousse was wonderfully creamy and lovely in accompaniment with the tart pomegranate kernels. We both went with Dutch specialty stamppot for the main course - in this case a delicious mélange of cavolo nero and mashed potatoes served with crisp bacon and a very delicious pork sausage. An incredibly tasty and hearty dish. We shared a bottle of dornfelder from Pfalz during the meal, and left comfortably full. Recommended.

Monday, February 25, 2013

Gilt

Pencillin, Rabarberklubben and something featuring a great amount of Averna.
Gilt
Rantzausgade 39
2200 Copenhagen N 

Notes:
After our dinner at FuWa we decided to head on for a drink or two and as Gilt is right down the road it was an easy decision to go there. We entered at 10pm where the place was semi-full and left us plenty of space and peace for quiet conversation. All cocktails from the menu are priced competitively at 75dkk, whereof many are "new nordic" takes on classic cocktails. For instance we had a take on Clover Club featuring rhubarb and gooseberries, which was a lovely and more tart interpretation of the classic drink. On request we also had the creative bartender make us a round of cocktails off the menu. They were all great, but do watch out - they turned out to be some pricy encounters, and we were charged +100 each for the cocktails. All in all, we did however very much enjoy the cocktails at Gilt. The cocktail menu is among the most innovative in the menu and the tenders are both kind and knowing. Recommended.

Sunday, February 24, 2013

FuWa

Beef noodle soup as a starter of the dim sum menu.

Deep-fried spareribs.

Char siu with plenty of sauce and vegetables.

Kung pao chicken.

The fried part of the dim sum menu.

Deep-fried pineapple and vanilla ice cream with whipped cream and chocolate sauce.

FuWa
Jagtvej 22
2200 Copenhagen N

Notes: 
Last Thursday B and I went out for a casual dinner and drinks with a good friend of ours. After reading quite good reviews in both Politiken and Berlingske, we opted for dinner at FuWa. While B and I will use any opportunity to dig into a greasy kung pao, our friend opted for the dim sum menu, which in this case turned out to be a clever choice. The menu started off with heart noodle soup loaded with tender pieces of beef and scallions. B had set his heart of for spareribs, which turned out to be just fine - nothing to rave about. For main we went with before-mentioned kung pao as well as B's favorite from the Cantonese kitchen, char siu. This take on it was however a bit different from how it is usually served as it was mixed with a great amount of vegetables and some sort of unidentifiable sauce. Quite a shame as the typical barbecued tasted from the char siu did not manage to come through. The kung pao was also quite unlike the kind we have eaten so often in Beijing. Again, there was too much sauce, a severe lack of Sichuan peppers, and quite blandly seasoned. Our friend was more lucky with her dim sum, which we fortunately had a bite of here and there. The shrimp toast was among the best I have ever tasted and the won ton, spring rolls and steamed dim sum were all packed with different flavors. We ended with a meal with a not-so-authentic dessert of deep-fried pineapple and vanilla ice cream. All in all, a fine experience at FuWa though we would not return for the non-dim sum dishes. The dim sum on the other hand is among the best I have had in Copenhagen and certainly a worthy of a visit. Recommended.

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

Mikkeller

Pizza Port A.B.L.E. (Achievement Beyond Life's Experiences) Stout + Frederiksdal cherry wine.


Mikkeller
Viktoriagade 8B-C
1655 Copenhagen V

Notes: A shout-out for one of Copenhagen's finest beer bars! B and I dropped in before heading for NOSE2TAIL on a Sunday evening, where the place was semi-full - I don't think there is such a thing as off-peak hours here. Understable as Mikkeller always has 20 different (and oftentimes rare) beers on tap, and they are in heavy rotation! This time B was intrigued by an American stout by Pizza Port Brewing Company, while I was almost ashamed not to order beer as well. I had however spotted that they were serving Frederiksdal cherry wine by the glass for just 50dkk. For those who do not know Frederiksdal, the product that they produce is unlike any other cherry wines, quite dry and complex. I have been served it at Radio previously and it can be found in renowned restaurants like Le Sommelier, Kødbyens Fiskebar and even noma. A collaboration between Frederiksdal and Mikkeller is by the way coming up, taking form as Spontan Cherry (check out the beautiful artwork, too!), which should be hit the bar quite soon. I should note that Mikkeller is open every, single day - and that they are expanding with a new and larger bar, named Mikkeller & Friends to be opened on March 16 (take note, 1000 beers will be handed out for free!). Highly recommended - and looking forward to seeing the new space in Copenhagen N.

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

NOSE2TAIL Madbodega - Copenhagen Dining Week

Charcuterie board and bread basket
...and another shot, a bit closer.
Pork roast, mashed potatoes, roasted beets and Jerusalem artichokes, smoked bone marrow, and pea shoots.
Apple trifle featuring apple compote, whipped cream, and macaroons.

Nose2Tail
Flæsketorvet 13A
1711 Copenhagen V

Notes: As it has been the case for most Danish food bloggers, B and I could not let Dining Week pass unattended. The concept is simple - each restaurant provides a three course menu for 200dkk and a bottle of San Pellegrino is included in the price of the meal as well. A very reasonable deal. Though everybody else is enjoying winter vacation in week 7, I had been occupied with thesis field studies at Biofach in Nüremberg, and after an intense week it seemed only appropriate to go out and enjoy a good meal. Unfortunately few restaurants are open on Sundays in Copenhagen (another thing boldly underscoring Copenhagen's non-metropolis status), but B and I were happy to see that NOSE2TAIL were among the open restaurants. The restaurant is situated in an old cellar, and while the decor is tough, the atmosphere is warm and lively. We received knowing assistance from a chatty, female waiter, and were started off with a glass of Weissburgunder from Rheingau. First dish arrived quickly, a board full of little things to share. It included a range of charcuterie, cheese, butter, solæg (a regional Danish specialty - a take one deviled eggs), lumpfish roe, and pickles. B was really excited about the entire selection, and I also thoroughly enjoyed the roe, which was mixed with smoked cheese (only objective being that there was too little!) as well as the pickles, rillettes, terrine and liver paté, which all tasted very homemade. The mustard was a bit unbalanced, and the cheese nor solæg left much of an impression. I should mention that we were also provided a bread basket with two sorts of bread. The dark, malty bread was delicious - especially with the accompanying butter. But enough about the charcuterie board. The main course consisted of a rolled pork roast served with potato mash, baked beets and Jerusalem artichokes, smoked bone marrow and a delicious sauce made from beets and apple. An incredibly tasty, hearty dish with high yum factor but unfortunately I found the roast to be a bit too fatty for my liking. But otherwise lovely. Dessert was simple - almost too simple - though I reckon that this really is not the area where NOSE2TAIL put all creative effort. It was advertised as an apple trifle but I guess the appropriate title would had been gammeldaws æblekage - also known as old fashioned apple pie among non-Danes. Basically it is apple compote featuring whipped cream and crushed macaroons. Tasted lovely, though my focus was more on the dessert wine. We had a glass of Macvin Bland chardonnay by Fabrice Closset in Jura as well as a Vincent Bouchard portwine (I should mention that dessert wine is a serious soft spot/ guilty pleasure for me). No need to say we left very full and quite pleased - thinking that we will probably return to NOSE2TAIL under normal circumstances. Recommended.

Saturday, February 09, 2013

Mielcke & Hurtigkarl feat. Mikkeller

Apéritif - the Mikkeller Mielcke & Hurtigkarl beer, a belgian-style ale, matured on sauternes casks. Lots of sweet, floral notes. Very vinous and a great for accompanying the amuses of charcuterie...

... The first amuse being smoked calf's tongue. The piece I got was way too chewy, but B was a huge fan.
Then there was lardo, which I found quite acrid... We were also served pepper cured duck's breast and smoked pork neck, which I did not manage to snap a picture of.

First beer was Mikkeller's gueuze-type Spontanale to which a fair amount of cilantro had been added by M&H. Accompanied by a dish of fermented cabbage (since December apparently) and oysters...
...and topped with a sauce of smoked bone marrow, bread crumbs and more cilantro. This dish was a great start to the dinner and though neither the beer nor the dish was very "pleasing" to the palate, it certainly sharpened our tastebuds.
Second course was the highlight of the evening for me! The first lumpfish roe of the season served with extremely delicate, almost transparent, lightly pickled skate wing, pickled onions and ramps in a creamy, dashi sauce. There might be snow outside but it made me feel like spring is just around the corner.

It was served with Nelson Sauvignon, which is a very dry Belgian ale stored on Austrian wine casks. M&H had added bonito to the beer, which made for a smoky, slightly sweet, and certainly bold beer pairing. 

Our third beer and course was a really interesting match! It's Alive, Mikkeller's take on the Belgian trappist beer, Orval. M&H had added shiso and umeboshi to such a degree that the beer was almost like salt water. Not entirely pleasing on it's own...

...but it turned out to be a perfect pairing for the third course - a greasy burger! Not any burger, though - it featured wagyu beef which was partly grilled, partly raw, a garlic and miso mayo, spring onions and cress served in a fried, brioche bun. I don't think I have ever had a more indulgent dish, and eating this with our bare hands, this was certainly food porn at it's finest! Interesting, the beer lost all of it's salty edge and was a refreshing pairing to the greasy food.



The fourth course started off like this... Julienned, raw daikon (and wood sorrel?)...
Then this came to our table! A salt dough encrusted halibut to be shared at the table.

None of our fellow diners dared to dig into the fish, and B therefore took the lead.


The halibut was then served with a sauce made with the #1 fish enemy, according to Jakob Mielcke, red wine. The sauce also featured soy sauce, ox tail broth and dashi and a good amount of salmon roe. It went beautifully with the George beer, which is an entirely black, imperial stout with 12,12% alcohol. M&H had added zest and juice of bergamot which made for a very powerful and aromatic pairing to the almost meaty fish. Great dish.



Time for desserts! First up, raw slices of jerusalem artichoke which was also represented in a sort of mousse. It was escorted by a darky, sticky sesame fudge and cookie crumbs of a sort. In the glass, we had Funky E Star, a Belgian pale ale from Sauternes casks that M&H had feed a fair amount of cream caramel. Somehow I did not manage to get a picture of the beer but it looked a great deal like thin Bailey's - and also tasted a bit like it. Not my favorite of the evening, but the sugary beer went very well with the sweetness of the jerusalem artichokes.

Sixth and last course! This was candied yuzu served up with a an extremely aromatic bergamot sorbet, a sponge cake and what I guess was a matcha mousse of sorts. Again, served with Funky E-star, this time on Chardonnay casks, featuring a generous amount of ginger
Mielcke & Hurtigkarl
Frederiksberg Runddel 1
2000 Frederiksberg

Notes:
This is really not representative of a normal evening at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl - but B and I agreed that it is a place that we would love to return to under normal and less experimental conditions. Apart from the appetizers which I did not care too much for, the food we had this evening was extremely delicate, the ingredient quality unquestionably amazing, and the Asian influences were subtly but interestingly incorporated. The meal had a bit of everything - something weird, something rich, something delicate, and we both left full and satisfied. Prior to the evening I had been a bit unsure of quite what to expect as we previously have attended a beer and wine event at Kiin Kiin from which we left with mixed feelings. The idea of letting Mielcke and Hurtigkarl exercise their magic on the Mikkeller beer however turned out to be an unusual but interesting and tasty concept. We will certainly return to Mielcke & Hurtigkarl again, probably during the summer, when justice can be brought to the beautiful settings (and the current renovation of the restaurant is finished). Highly recommended!

Monday, February 04, 2013

Ristorante Da Claudio

J. Hofstätter Joseph Pinot Grigio 2011 from Alto Adige.

Olives.
Beef carpaccio with truffle cream, parmesan, arugula, shaved carrot and balsamic glace. 
Antipasto misto.
Saltimbocca alla Romana.

Pappardelle with beef filet in cep and truffle cream sauce.

Espresso and biscotti.



Da Claudio
Godthåbsvej 42
2000 Frederiksberg

Notes:
Even though B and I can actually see Da Claudio from our apartment and pass it every single day, last night's visit to the restaurant was a first a for both of us. The exterior look of the restaurant screams cheesy, Italian restaurant and the price level is not exactly competitive compared to many other places around the city. We were however both thrilled and excited as my parents invited us out for dinner yesterday. The look of the interior did not ruin our first impression of a tacky, Italian restaurant, but the warm is light and there is a somehow tranquil atmosphere in the restaurant. We all opted for two à la carte dishes but started off with a crisp, mineral Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige and complementary olives which were marinated in olive oil and fresh parsley but otherwise tasted much like the 5dkk pitted olives available in glasses in most supermarkets. As to the actual courses, I started off with beef carpaccio, which was made of extremely fresh beef but was way over-garnished. I did not really get the addition of raw carrot, and while the truffle cream was really delicious it did not really play very well with the parmesan and balsamico, which all in all made for a confusing impression. B's choice of antipasto misto left us a bit with the same impression but again, the quality of the ingredients could not be questioned. For mains, B's pappardelle with beef, truffle and cep cream sauce was very tasty and hearty and I even managed to snatch two bites from his dish. My saltimbocca alla Romana was also very tasty and I liked the addition of the fried carrot strips though the other vegetable garnishes were quite trivial. For the main courses we enjoyed a Sicilian Nero d'Avola. We ended our meal with a strong espresso and a homemade biscotti and left Da Claudio full and satisfied. I should mention that my parents had booked the table through Restaurant2Night, which enabled them to get a 25% discount on the entire meal. And while I found some of the dishes to be a bit too fuzzy or fragmented, for the final price I think that Da Claudio delivered a delicious, traditional meal at fine value. At full price there are however way better and less tacky deals to found around the city.

Saturday, February 02, 2013

Lê Lê Street Kitchen

Vermicelli salad with spring rolls filled with crab, shrimp, turkey and various veggies.

Warm beef salad with green beans, onion, sprouts, tomato, and herbs in a soy sauce and lemon grass dressing.


Lê Lê Street Kitchen
H.C. Andersens Boulevard 8
1553 Copenhagen V

Notes:
My current workplace is right in the center of Copenhagen and though lunch possibilities are plenty I hardly ever venture out for lunch as the canteen in my work place is both good and cheap. When my mother invited me out for a quick lunch yesterday I was however quick to accept the offer. Neither of us had tried Lê Lê Street Kitchen and as it is literally right around the corner from where I work it seemed like a good time to try it out. To be honest my previous encounters with Lê Lê have not been too impressive (e.g. their takeout is hardly a good value proposition) and was thus not sure quite to expect. The restaurant however turned out to be a great place for lunch. Service is no-frills but friendly and efficient, and the space really looks more like a canteen than a restaurant (hence the street kitchen name, I guess). I opted for a warm beef salad. The portion was very generous even though it did not look like much initially. I had however wished that they would had added more herbs as that is what I really love about the Vietnamese cuisine. My mom was quite pleased with the spring rolls, which were served with a nước mắm dipping sauce and a rice noodle salad, which honestly was not too exciting. All in all I however found Lê Lê Street Kitchen to be a fine and fair lunch option in an area where bad caesar salads cost +120dkk. We payed around 250 dkk for these two dishes, a lemonade and sparkling water (tap water is free, thumbs up for that). Recommended.