Friday, December 14, 2012

Retour

Scallop, fennel, dill, mussels, cream
Turbot, salsify, pancetta, tarragon
Pigeon, foie gras, celeriac, cherry sauce
Sausage of duck, morels, potato purée
Pistachio cake, macerated prunes, wood sorrel, prune and white chocolate ice cream, burnt white chocolate



Retour
Tordenskjoldsgade 11
1055 Copenhagen K
Mon-Sat 17-23

Notes:
It has been a bit over one year since Rasmus Oubæk opened his "new" restaurant Retour in minimalistic surroundings just behind Kongens Nytorv and the Royal Theatre and the place has not been short on praise since. B, my parents, and I visited the place on a December Friday night which also happened to be my birthday. The place was packed, mainly with men, and the scent of fries was omnipresent to say the least. The atmosphere was however light and lively and service knowing and attentive. We decided to opt for a five-course menu priced at 450dkk. The à la carte menu is dedicated to Oubæk's bistro classics like boeuf béarnaise and steak tartare. Just like those dishes, the dishes we were served were very hearty, robust at times, but a common denominator also being incredible tastiness. Standouts were the turbot with tarragon cream, perfectly prepared pigeon and a dessert that I reckon being the most satisfying I have had in a very long time. Somehow the fourth course seemed excessive in the context but somehow the dishes still disappeared into our mouths - who can say no to morels anyway? All in all, though slightly insipid and robust at times we enjoyed a delicious, hearty meal, perfectly appropriate for this season. Do not expect fine dining but well-prepared and tasty food in lively ambience. A mini fast beforehand might be recommended. But I still do recommend Retour and am looking forward to visiting its sister restaurant Pluto in the near future.

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